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22 Sep 2010 - HOW TO: Swapping 5th gear between boxes

Written by Frisco 22 September 2010, 03:09:00 pm 2522 Views Rating: 0 (0 Rates) Print

The idea of this mod is to give you better motorway cruising by fitting a WR 5th gear while keeping the decent acceleration of a CR 1st - 4th. You could just go all fancy like Andy and fit an F28 but this is cheaper and gives you lower revs in 5th than the F28 in 6th.

Im fitting a WR gear to my F20 but its the same procedure if you want to fit an F16WR 5th into your F16CR or if your fitting an F20 gear cluster into your F16 housing this is a worthwhile mod.

F16s all share the same selector forks so swapping between them is easy.
If your fitting an F20 cluster its easier to use an F18WR 5th as the selector forks are the same between the F18 and F20 but not with the F16

If you dont feel confident taking your gearbox apart the please dont start. This is fairly simple to do but its still the inside of a gearbox

1- Remove the end cover of the box. This is the inner ring of 11/13mm bolts

2- now looking at the gears you need to:

Remove the two circlips arrowed in GREEN

Remove the two 5.5mm allen bolts that are arrowed in YELLOW

The left hand gear can now be removed by gently prying it from behind with a screwdriver. It is in a few parts so keep hold of it as you pull it off keeping the selector fork with it and being very carefull not to let the two bronze bushes (circled in RED) fall out.

3- Removing the left hand gear requires a puller but it does just slide off once the circlip is removed.

This is what your left with. Be gentle with it and keep it absolutely clean

Removing the F20 one is exactly the same and refitting is the opposite. If your doing this with the box still in the car jack up the passenger side only so you don't loose gear oil.

22 Sep 2010 - HOW TO: Rear disc conversion

Written by Frisco 22 September 2010, 03:05:00 pm 2484 Views Rating: 0 (0 Rates) Print

This is a basic how-to on converting to rear disc brakes using mk3 cav or astra hubs. This is a very simple swap and is very worthwhile since the disc setup brings both better braking and easier maintenance.

Now if your thinking of doing this I assume you can remove the beam yourself so im not going through that. The rear brakes will need to be bled afterward and there is a small bit of welding needed on the handbrake adjuster.

The easiest way to do it it to get your hands on a complete mk3 cav rear beam complete. This just bolts straight on without any modification leaving you with only the handbrake cable to sort.

If however you can't get one of those but can get the disc hubs all is not lost, you can use your mk2 beam.
If for have early NON ABS hubs they will fit straight onto the mk2 beam.

If you have ABS hubs it goes as follows

Horrible drums

and off

Now when you compare the ABS hub with what you have taken off the problem becomes obvious

Old one

New one with stupid massive abs sensor

The hole in the beam is too small so to get the hub to fit it has to be opened up to 61mm.

There are a few ways to do this most of them involving lots of sweating and taking ages.
I used one of these with a carbide tip

Hole marked up to be widened

And after about half an hour one side done

Then it all fits together

Brake line

If you have mk3 disc setup ones they fit straight on but if you dont you basically have two options.

1- replace the line with some copper or nickel brake line. If you dont have the tools to do this yourself most motor factors will make it up if you give them a length (bending a bit of thick wire into the right shape is a good way to get the right length)

2- bend the old drum pipe to reach the caliper. This works OK but IMO a new pipe is the way to go.

Ill be making up a new pipe for mine but just to prove that the drum one will fit

Handbrake

This has to be done no matter what beam your fitting.
You will need to get a pair of mk3 cav disc handbrake cables which fit directly onto either beam. The problem is that mk3 cav cables are longer so you need to loose the slack.

The easiest way to do this is to get this little bugger (the adjuster used on both 84-88 mk2s and ALL mk3 cavs)

The adjuster is 140mm long overall and by making it shorter you loose the extra slack on the cable. You need to cut a bit out of it (about 25mm) so you end up with it being 115mm long.
Take the width of your grinding disc into account, it needs to end up being 115mm long or you wont get the ends of the cable into it.

And weld it back together

This is fitted as it would normally be and the mk3 cable will now fit the car perfectly. Once its all bolted back up and the system is bled your good to go.

If ive missed anything or if anyone thinks there is a better way to do any of it let me know.

03 Jun 2010 - HOW TO: F20 internals in F16 housing

Written by Frisco 03 June 2010, 12:39:00 am 1597 Views Rating: 0 (0 Rates) Print

This is a basic how-to on removing the internals from an F16/F20 so you can swap the housings over to allow you to keep your F16 housing.

1 Remove the gear selector turret by removing the four 11mm bolts at the base and giving it a tug and a wiggle.

Disconnecting the gear linkage can make this easier, if you do this make sure you split as in the pic below not by undoing the bolt on the shaft to save you having to reset the selector.

2 Next remove the reverse light switch. This isnt strictly necessary but can make life easier and it just screws out.

3 Undo the ring of 13mm bolts on the end casing of the box. There are two rings of bolts, the inner one is for the 5th gear cover plate and the outer is for the gear cluster. Its the outer one you want. (that blue thing at the bottom is my finger)

Once thats done the gear cluster will simply pull out.

4 Remove both drive shafts. (if your attempting this i take it you know how to remove drive shafts

)

5 Now the difficult bit. You need to remove the big diff preload nut (castle nut) These are set by weight at the factory so you need to mark its position and count the number of turns it takes to remove as it needs to be put back in the same place.

Remove the locator which is a 10mm bolt.

Then you need to spin the nut out. Some people use a hammer and chisel but i am not that way inclined so i made this.

Which fits like this and allowed the use of a 30mm spanner.

Castle nut out. These are bugger tight so have your breakfast before you start.

6 Remove the drivers side diff bearing by removing the 5 bolts and prying it out. This takes a lot of prying and some swearing.

7 Once you have that off you remove the bottom diff plate (gearbox sump) Have a bucket as there will be oil in it.

The diff should fall out now so if the box is still in the car don't have your head under the hole.

Thats all of it apart. Both F16 and F20 are the same to dismantle.
Reassembly is just the reverse except for the diff which is covered below

8 The F20 diff is slightly too wide to fit into the F16 housing and catches on the ends

So it get it in the edges of the housing need to be relieved slightly on both sides.

This is done with a sanding disc covered in wax so to stop the dust getting into your gearbox. Give the inside of the box a good clean afterwards, needless to say filings on the inside of the gearbox isnt a good idea.

Pay attention to the setting of the diff preload nut, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect but as close as you can get.
Replace all seals and gaskets. Refill with good quality 75-80W oil.
Job done

If ive missed something let me know
Thanks Blitz9994 for the bit about the diff refitting.

03 Jun 2010 - HOW TO: Bumper de-oxidisation

Written by Frisco 03 June 2010, 12:27:00 am 870 Views Rating: 0 (0 Rates) Print

This is a fairly simple way of breathing some new life into your faded bumpers

You need a paint stripper heat gun

Like so

And some manky old bumpers

Like so

First step is to clean the bumper until there is no dirt at all on it. You are going to be melting the surface of it so any dirt on it will be melted into it never to be removed again.

Then you use the heat gun on the surface of the plastic until it begins to darken in colour. Hold the gun a few inches away from the surface and keep it moving at all times.

You want to keep it on it long enough to get the colour to change but not long enough to cause the plastic to start to bubble.
Basically you will have the rythm of it within a few minutes and then its just a case of keeping going

Be carefull of corners and edges as these can melt easier

The gun is made for removing paint so obviously be very carefull not to let it get at the cars paintwork. It will also do a nice job of melting rear lights and cracking headlights and fogs so really its best to remove the bumpers (seeing as its so easy on cavs)

Before

After

03 Jun 2010 - HOW TO: XE wiring

Written by Frisco 03 June 2010, 12:01:00 am 1363 Views Rating: 0 (0 Rates) Print

Here is a few pics of the wires needed when doing an XE conversion. All these wires are on the engine loom.

This is a C25XE but the C20XE is the same

The one in my hand is red/blue and is the fuel pump supply you can see the green tacho one on the green plug behind it. These two are beside the ECU on the engine loom

The black one in my hand goes to an ignition switched +12v get your multimeter out ad find a +12v thats not being used anymore (there are lots in the bay). This comes out with the RON plug beside the coil module

This is a thick red one and goes to the positive pole of the battery. This also comes out of the engine loom beside the coil module

With the 3 of those wired in and the rest of the loom connected the engine should start. Its that easy!

Wiring Diagrams  Electric Windows <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/electric%20windows.jpg"><img height="75" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/workshopthumbs/electric%20windows_small.jpg" width="141" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="workshop/workshopimages/electric windows.jpg"></a> (all watermarked now too... - Andy)   Heated Electric Mirrors <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/mirror2.jpg"><img height="77" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/workshopthumbs/mirror2_small.jpg" width="100" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="workshop/workshopimages/mirror2.jpg"></a>   Central Locking <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/central%20locking.jpg"><img height="79" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/workshopthumbs/central%20locking_small.jpg" width="100" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="workshop/workshopimages/central locking.jpg"></a>    (Thanks to John W for making these diagrams above) Digital Dash Conversion <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/dashnew.jpg"><img height="141" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/workshopimages/workshopthumbs/dashnew_small.jpg" width="100" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="tech/dashnew.jpg"></a> Re-Drawn By Andy K    Other Useful(!) Information Body Panels <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/panels.jpg"><img height="136" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/panels_small.jpg" width="100" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="tech/panels.jpg"></a> Scanned from APW   Crime Statistics <a href="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/security.jpg"><img height="79" src="http://www.mk2cav.com/body/main/html/tech/security_small.jpg" width="108" border="2" xthumbnail-orig-image="tech/security.jpg"></a> (reasons to buy a Category 1 Alarm!!)

<table bgcolor="#000000" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="88" width="713" style="text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="27" width="851" style="text-align: left;">Fitting power steering:</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="321" valign="top" width="754">   First off source A power steering rack, pump and mounting plate from a MK2 CDi. <div style="text-align: left;">(These were the only mk2's to get power steering as standard</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"> - As you can imagine MK2 CDi are getting increasingly rare, so Mk3 stuff can be used.)</div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div> <ol><li> <div style="text-align: left;">First job is to get the car jacked up and remove the drivers side front wheel. </div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div></li><li> Then you will need to remove the old rack   </li><li> Start by undoing the 2 bolts that hold the steering arms to the steering rack. These are fairly big as well (22mm or there abouts). It's ok just to let the arms dangle.   </li><li> Next up is the bolts that hold the rack to the bulkhead, there are 4 or them 13mm and 3 of which are fairly easy to get to. Now the 4th bolt requires a little bit of patients. First you will need to move the servo forward to do this you will need to go inside the car.   </li><li> What needed now is to remove the lower trim panel above the pedals, then, if you shine a touch up towards the top of the bulks head, you will see 3 bolts that hold the servo in place these need to be undone and there not easy to get to.   </li><li> There is a 13mm bolt on the coupling which will need to be loosened so the rack will pull away from the column .Also try and keep the steering wheel centre.   </li><li> When these 3 bolts have been undone the servo should pull away from the bulk head just enough to get a spanner to the last remaining bolt on the steering rack. Once all these bolts are out the rack should now pull out.   Now get ya self a cup of tea and chill for a while.............  The new rack can now be fitted..    </li><li> First get the coupling connected back up if possible this will save loads of hassle later on.   </li><li> Then bolt the rack back onto the bulk head, and bolt the servo back up. All that should be left is the steering arms so they need bolting back as well nice and tight.   Next job is the pump. </li><li> Most, if not all bottom pulley's already have the groove in to run the steering belt so no probs there. First job would be to get the bracket mounted to the front of the engine block hole will be already there for this.   </li><li> Then the pump needs mounting to the bracket which is fairly easy just a couple of bolts and rubber mounting. Then the belt will need connecting to the bottom pulley. There is a 19mm bolt that need's adjusting to get the belt tight on the pulley, and a 2nd 19mm bolt that lock the 1st bolt.   </li><li> You will then need to plumb the pipes from the pump to the rack. One of the pipes with have proper ends which is the main feed to the rack and then the other pipe will just be a couple of jubilee clips one each end this is the return pipe’s.   </li><li> If your using a MK2 pump the fluid goes in the actual pump it self a bit of a pain to fill up. If using MK3 pump then there is a separate bottle that feeds the pump which will have to be mounted somewhere in the engine bay the decision is yours, but I have seen this done, and said bottle was mounted on top or the rear gearbox mounting bracket.   </li><li> Now that the fluid has been put in start the engine, and move the steering from lock to lock 3 or 4 times slowly, this should bleed the system. All that remains now is to do a final top up and check for leaks. When that’s done get the car back on it road wheels and go for a burn......................                                    </li></ol> </td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="1" valign="top" width="754"> original document by Daz, adapted for web by Andy</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table bgcolor="#000000" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="59" width="713"><tbody><tr><td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" colspan="5" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="27" width="851" style="text-align: left;">Converting an 8valve loom to 16valve loom</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" colspan="5" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="294" valign="top" width="754">   This is a fairly easy process to do: 1). First you need to take the 8 valve loom off the car. 2). You then need to chop the main plug that plugs into the car loom off (there are 8 wires in total but only 4 will be need to be reconnected) 3). Next you will need to chop the main plug off the 16 valve loom leaving plenty of wire to mess about with. 4).  Now you should have a 16v loom with no plug, and a 8v plug with no loom </td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" rowspan="2" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="78" valign="top" width="161">  </td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="15" valign="top" width="172"> 16V Loom</td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="15" valign="top" width="34"> To</td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="15" valign="top" width="195"> 8v Plug </td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" rowspan="2" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="78" valign="top" width="155">  </td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="150" valign="top" width="172"> Blue   Blue / Red   Yellow / Black   Green   Large red wire</td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="150" valign="top" width="34">  </td> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="150" valign="top" width="195"> White /   Black   Blue / Red   Black   Green   Battery</td> </tr> <tr> <td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" colspan="5" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="175" valign="top" width="754">   5. Check your connections are good and there is only one more to do. 6.There will be a Blue/brown on a small 4-pin plug next to the ECU this is for the management light this does not  need to be connected for the engine to run.</td></tr><tr><td bordercolor="#000000" bordercolorlight="#FFFFFF" bordercolordark="#FFFFFF" colspan="5" align="center" bgcolor="#ffffff" height="1" valign="top" width="754">original document by Daz, adapted for mk2cav.com by Andy</td></tr></tbody> </table>