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Kelvin berry

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11 hours ago, Tony Autoweld Plaskett said:

Inner sills or outer sills and how many and are we talking full replacement sills or patching what's there

 

Inner arches or outer arches all 4 or just rears are we welding plates in and filling or putting outer arches in and smoothing or full rear quarters and smoothing or am i just welding replacement panels in and your smoothing/filling or what ?

Are we plating the floorpan or replacing it with a new panel, if replacing it what size is the new panel around ? if we are plating it how many plates of what size Will i be welding in and will I be welding them into the inside just or you want both sides or are we going for exact cut outs welded in and smoothed so they are invisible

 

The rear valance do you have a new one to weld in or are we repairing the one on the car and again if we are plating it how many plates of what size and I'm assuming you will deffo want that cut out exact and welded in and then ground off and polished so it' invisible will you ??

 

I need this info to be able to work out my time and materials mate if you let me know or better still send me detailed photos I can make an educated guess and give an accurate quote

 

 

Im looking for outer sills both sides, both outer arches and lower valance on back, the floor pan is right next to the subframe mount.

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Go and see what panels you can source and let me know what you end up with im not massively keen on putting arches into a shell thats sat outside because if you don' get them sealed quick there gonna rot out again bit its upto you i suppose its your car, floorpans is easy sills shouldn' be too bad as ong as you get decent qualty outers that fit iv seen some Chinese ones that you basically end up cutting into patches because they don' fit on any one side let alone all around, let me know what you get and I'll price it, I won' be up for driving from Scotland to weld all day to sleep in a tent and then weld all day again before driving all the way back up up lol but there is B&B available from 30 quid or if my camper conversion is done i may come in it, anyway let me know when your ready and I'll give you a price mate

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  • 3 months later...
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4 hours ago, Kelvin berry said:

I'm in leicestershire andy, the guys coming out on Monday to look and quote for welding the floorpan,  if its good enough I'll let him do the other jobs that need doing on it.

Great news and fingers crossed

Current mk2 stock: 4 LXs: white c20xe, blue & red std, blue LX parts car, blue GLi, Richies Saabilier & monaro VXR

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV daily (joyous planet saver.....well carbon offset for the ro)

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Kelvin, I have no idea on cost (as I've done mine with my dads help), but it may be worse than it looks.  I would get the green sound deadening off in that area.  Heat gun and a scrapper.  Then you can see how bad the top layer is (as rust hides under the hideous green stuff - I would recommend getting it all off).  The other issue is that there are 3 layers of steel in the foot well front, so it will depend on how its put back.  Thicker plate of less layers or 3 layers original (which also depends on how far the rust is).

No help but it might be more work than first glance.  Removing the green stuff will reduce the cost (as this can take a while). 

My final concern is that the curved section on the left looks very orange.....and may also need a plate.  Both areas on my white LX had this.

Current mk2 stock: 4 LXs: white c20xe, blue & red std, blue LX parts car, blue GLi, Richies Saabilier & monaro VXR

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV daily (joyous planet saver.....well carbon offset for the ro)

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Thanks Greg,  I didn' know there were 3 layers of steel on the front, you learn something new everyday. 

I'l be clearing all the green stuff off on the weekend so the guy can see better before he quotes for the job.

Ordered the arches and sills yesterday so they'll be here in a few weeks, and if this guys not to bad or expensive the resto can crack on a bit more, fingers crossed for a positive response,  if not I think it's gonna be sold onto a more willing owner.

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Those three layers of steel are the floorpan, the bulkhead and the inner arch. There is also a reinforcing panel underneath on of the floor.

If it is like that inside the car there is a good chance the bulkhead is going along the lower seam in the engine bay. If there is sound deadening on the bulkhead in the engine bay peel it up to check it out.

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15 hours ago, Kelvin berry said:

So far today I've replaced a wheel cylinder, tried to replace the brake shoes but had a nightmare doin it.

Grazed knuckles and a few tantrums later I've failed completely, the bloody springs have me completely flumoxed.

The springs holding the shoes?

Current mk2 stock: 4 LXs: white c20xe, blue & red std, blue LX parts car, blue GLi, Richies Saabilier & monaro VXR

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV daily (joyous planet saver.....well carbon offset for the ro)

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Early days but sills and arches i think. That said the arches may only need some remedial repair depending on what i uncover.....not even got a welder yet but getting the prep work done now.  April should hopefully  bring a vat free day at machine mart so i can get a new welder.. whatever happens it will be going back on the road now

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Some good the pair of you :D

Current mk2 stock: 4 LXs: white c20xe, blue & red std, blue LX parts car, blue GLi, Richies Saabilier & monaro VXR

Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV daily (joyous planet saver.....well carbon offset for the ro)

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Wait a moment!

That rust to the left of that area looks highly suspect to me. Get a screwdriver into it as I have a horrible feeling, based on my past experience, that all is not well there. Bear in mind that it is probably outside in rot you can see as that is an inherently dry/zero abrasion part of the footwell. Outside at that spot is a completely different matter, it is one of the top if not the top rot areas in the car. If it is like that inside it is likely that outside is a mess.

Hope not but it looks the same under the accelerator pedal.

 

Edited by GreyDJ2
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