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The idea of this mod is to give you better motorway cruising by fitting a WR 5th gear while keeping the decent acceleration of a CR 1st - 4th. You could just go all fancy like Andy and fit an F28 but this is cheaper and gives you lower revs in 5th than the F28 in 6th. I'm fitting a WR gear to my F20 but its the same procedure if you want to fit an F16WR 5th into your F16CR or if your fitting an F20 gear cluster into your F16 housing this is a worthwhile mod. F16s all share the same selector forks so swapping between them is easy. If your fitting an F20 cluster its easier to use an F18WR 5th as the selector forks are the same between the F18 and F20 but not with the F16 If you dont feel confident taking your gearbox apart the please dont start. This is fairly simple to do but its still the inside of a gearbox 1- Remove the end cover of the box. This is the inner ring of 11/13mm bolts 2- now looking at the gears you need to: Remove the two circlips arrowed in GREEN Remove the two 5.5mm allen bolts that are arrowed in YELLOW The left hand gear can now be removed by gently prying it from behind with a screwdriver. It is in a few parts so keep hold of it as you pull it off keeping the selector fork with it and being very carefull not to let the two bronze bushes (circled in RED) fall out. 3- Removing the left hand gear requires a puller but it does just slide off once the circlip is removed. This is what your left with. Be gentle with it and keep it absolutely clean Removing the F20 one is exactly the same and refitting is the opposite. If your doing this with the box still in the car jack up the passenger side only so you don't loose gear oil.
This is a basic how-to on removing the internals from an F16/F20 so you can swap the housings over to allow you to keep your F16 housing. 1 Remove the gear selector turret by removing the four 11mm bolts at the base and giving it a tug and a wiggle. Disconnecting the gear linkage can make this easier, if you do this make sure you split as in the pic below not by undoing the bolt on the shaft to save you having to reset the selector. 2 Next remove the reverse light switch. This isnt strictly necessary but can make life easier and it just screws out. 3 Undo the ring of 13mm bolts on the end casing of the box. There are two rings of bolts, the inner one is for the 5th gear cover plate and the outer is for the gear cluster. Its the outer one you want. (that blue thing at the bottom is my finger) Once thats done the gear cluster will simply pull out. 4 Remove both drive shafts. (if your attempting this i take it you know how to remove drive shafts ;D) 5 Now the difficult bit. You need to remove the big diff preload nut (castle nut) These are set by weight at the factory so you need to mark its position and count the number of turns it takes to remove as it needs to be put back in the same place. Remove the locator which is a 10mm bolt. Then you need to spin the nut out. Some people use a hammer and chisel but i am not that way inclined so i made this. Which fits like this and allowed the use of a 30mm spanner. Castle nut out. These are bugger tight so have your breakfast before you start. 6 Remove the drivers side diff bearing by removing the 5 bolts and prying it out. This takes a lot of prying and some swearing. 7 Once you have that off you remove the bottom diff plate (gearbox sump) Have a bucket as there will be oil in it. The diff should fall out now so if the box is still in the car don't have your head under the hole. Thats all of it apart. Both F16 and F20 are the same to dismantle. Reassembly is just the reverse except for the diff which is covered below 8 The F20 diff is slightly too wide to fit into the F16 housing and catches on the ends So it get it in the edges of the housing need to be relieved slightly on both sides. This is done with a sanding disc covered in wax so to stop the dust getting into your gearbox. Give the inside of the box a good clean afterwards, needless to say filings on the inside of the gearbox isn't a good idea. Pay attention to the setting of the diff preload nut, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect but as close as you can get. Replace all seals and gaskets. Refill with good quality 75-80W oil. Job done Edited 7 Aug 2014 by Frisco