New guy

[Strider]

First of all, I want to express my unimaginable happiness for stumbling upon this forum. Cavalier mk2, or Opel Ascona, the brand I have are seriously underappreciated cars, and as such I'm having real difficulties finding resources to work. I look forward to using this forum, learning from it and sharing what I can.

So, my name is Marko, I'm from Serbia, and I have a 1987 Opel Ascona sedan. The engine is the type that went into Corsa/Nova, the 1.3 S, available on Ascona only in some markets... underpowered slightly, but that's in the books for the future. Car itself is decently good, floor behind the rear wheels needs quite a bit of work and a few tiny patches in passenger footwell mostly. Engine is a long story, I will explain it more closely in some other thread, but long story short, it has been completely overhauled. Dashboard foam is cracked pretty much beyond repair save for replacing all the foam on it, seats have a bit of wear, and I am aiming to reupholster a big part of the car, to rejuvenate it and make it somewhat more modern - basically introduce some more modern materials while maintaining the original shape. Overall, I can write a lot about all the little quirks, all the little upgrades and repairs I'd like to make, but let's not go into it that much here, I will make a thread and post the pictures of it. Let's just say that, once again, I'm very glad I found an active group of Ascona/Cavallier drivers, and that I'll be honored for you guys to be a part of my restoration. 

Kind regards, 

Marko

[chris m]

Welcome to the club, put some pictures up of your car please.

[GreyDJ2]

Welcome to our site. Although most of us here, being in the UK, have the Vauxhall branded J Car we love to see the others.

I myself have shipped parts to New Zealand and that's about as far away as they get.

If you need new parts there is an Opel dealer in Greece who pops up here. Not cheap but genuine Ascona C parts.

Hope you enjoy your visits here, we try and be a helpful bunch!

[Strider]

I'll be sure to snap a few photos for the garage tomorrow, although be warned, there is not much left of a car currently. Some exterior has been removed, and interior is almost completely empty, down to bare metal. Eventually the engine and the suspension whole are going to be removed in preparation for repainting. Only thing I have taken a picture off so far are the faults, and the eerily empty interior.Thank you for the kind welcome !

[Strider]

Offtopic slightly, but can anyone give me some pointers to posting a topic for my car in the garage ? I have tried it all, and it just doesn't work, it doesn't make a post. Thanks in advance

[Greg]

Welcome to the site.  Are you a paid up member?  If so it should let you post it up.  There is a lot of content and help tucked away on the forum I believe @andy can send the relevant info.

[Strider]

 

Hello, after a long hiatus I'm gonna get some images as I promised. At least of what's left of the car

The paint is faded, I do believe it can be compound polished and recoated with some clear to return the shine, however...

Some panels are like this, obviously repainted at some point, and what exactly got this finish, I have no idea, too thick of a coat, too fast drying, whatever, it's atrocious. All of it will be stripped and as a bonus I can change the color. As soon as the patching is done, I can start on sanding and I expect to finish around October of 2022. Maybe 2023.

Now, the bane of an Opel/Vauxhall, and mk2 Cav/Ascona in general - RUST!

Yeah, that's the view from inside the trunk and that is the daylight shining through that hole. I don't envy the guy doing the bodywork.

 

Overall, while there is a lot of work, it's surprisingly little rust considering the age and the habit of rusting away. There are a few patches of rust on top, but solved with just a bit of sandpaper so not worth mentioning.

 

 

Engine bay is FILTHY. Everything is getting stripped out anyway, by now there are just the brake lines and steering rack left. It will require a bit of rust management, but reasonably small amounts, none structural. I'm almost set on adding a skidplate underneath, not for ding protection as much as for dust protection. Most/all of parts inside will be cleaned and repainted after ensuring a sound mechanical condition. Before you tell me that there is a little engine in my oil,  engine was recently rebuilt, hasn't gone 10k miles after it, and the head was tightened by hand, using old bolts. Don't ask, new head gasket and bolts will be utilized, and this time I will torque it to spec using proper tools.

 

Main, big things are rust and repainting, which will be the most tedious and significant parts of restoration. Past that, however, no small job awaits, there are a thousand little problems you'd expect from a relatively neglected car. Headlights are shot beyond repair, the gear on the lever for the sunroof has stripped (no idea what to do about it short of making a new one), interior will be reupholstered whole, I'm gonna find a dash with a rev meter and install it, as well as replace the only 2 factory speakers and install 2 new ones on the rear deck. New shocks are paramount, it's likely that I will install rear brake disks rather than the drums on currently, new rims 195/50 R15 most likely, so on and so forth. Oh, yeah, I will address the known "issue" of old Opel/VX chassis - softness. I will fabricate and install strut bars on both rear and front to stiffen it up, taking care to make it sleek. I am looking for a full improvement of the car, however not trying to make it look straight out of DTM. Everything needs cleaning, checking, I'm trying to make a car which I can just stick a key in and set off on a 2k journey with no worries will it fall apart along the way.

So, there is my Ascona. Fixing it will be no small task, it's slowed down by many things, but overall, this is about where I stand right now. I will update you on progress as well as beg for assistance once I can't figure out how something works. Thank you for reading !

[Rusty]

Good project, seems that no matter where in the world the car is it ll rust in the same places, good luck with it 

[Strider]

It's a very sizeable one, and I have days when I look at it and ask "how much work would it take to load it onto trailer and take it to scrapyard". I do always spring back, since the bodywork is in quite good shape except the rust hotspots. The model is LS, or lower equipment trim, and there is quite a bit of stuff I'm planning to add (heated seats, heated mirrors, etc, and later on there is a plan for getting a 20SEH in it (not sure if the engine name is the same for Vauxhalls too, it's the SRi one there, GT with Ascona), or if I'm unable to find that (or it gets prohibitively expensive), 1.8 at least. Bunch of stuff to be done, upgraded, changed... The end goal is to have a sharp looking, reliable retro daily driver that has been upgraded to have most bells and whistles of modern day cars. I will get to becoming a proper member soon, update as I go and obviously, ask for advice. 

[GreyDJ2]

Yes, 20SEH is the GM name for the engine, it is in the SRi 130 here, as well as early Vectra A/Astra etc so it was fairly common. The 115bhp version is the 20NE or 18SE.

If you plan on fitting the injection engine as phase 2 make sure you plumb in two fuel lines from the start. Oh, and fit the front brakes from a 2.0 Vectra A as well.

[andy]

Fantastic update. Really great to see one from as far away as Serbia! I used to see the occasional one in Poland, but never as many as I might have expected to make it across the boarder when east met west! 

You've certainly come to the right place anyway, we support them all!

 

[Strider]

@GreyDJ2 What do you mean 2 fuel lines? The car currently has 2, one bigger, intake, and one smaller, return line. They are obviously gonna be replaced, but do I need some additional lines for the new fuel pump ? Brakes are going to be replaced, front with bigger disks, thanks for the tip that Vectra A disks fit, and rear is gonna get Vectra A disks as well, with the car full it just doesn't stop as well as it should.

@andy Thanks for the kind welcome, I'm certainly gonna need a few parts as well as vast experience around here. 

On a side note, I'm about to go and inspect the wiring harness, I saw a few bare wires. could someone point me out to the wire required for rev meter? I'm pretty sure it's a wire from the high-voltage coil going to the dash, but I ain't too certain so pointers would be highly appreciated before I wrap it up in tape. I assume the gauge of the wire isn't all that important due to it being a mere signal wire, but if anyone disagrees, feel free to correct me. Thanks in advance chaps.

[andy]

Rev counter is the green wire via coil! 

[Strider]

Thanks, found it ! I saw somewhere on a local forum that a guy had to run a new wire, turns out it was wired in already in mine.

Since the harness is out, I'd like to do all the wires beforehand before wrapping it all up. Does anyone know which electric window mechanisms fit the Cav/Ascona ? I know that there were versions (CD for Ascona) that came with factory power windows, but those are damn near impossible to find near me. I'd think that something from a Vectra A fits. If so, how many wires to run to front doors and how many to switches - I'd install them near the gearshift, roughly in factory location, two separate switches.

[GreyDJ2]

Injection cars have two 8mm fuel pipes, flow and return, as the whole system is pressurised. Use modern plastic pipe.There is a 14mm flexi feed pipe from tank to pump.

But, if I was you I would be putting in a late Vectra A tank with internal pump. Much simpler pipework and should be easier to find but must be a 2.0 pump not 1.8. Needs an access hole in the floorpan under the rear seat (round plastic cover needed too) and a pump electrical connector there.

If you are going to use E10 petrol seal the inside of the tank before it goes in and use E10 safe pipework (no steel).

Another reason for the Vectra tank is the petrol gauge sender. Mk2 injection versions are hens teeth selling, if you can get one, for £150+ or 180 Euro out of Germany.

[Rich]

Welcome to the site. Great project car! Be great to get a project thread up and running once you can, so we can track progress.

[Strider]

I will get the membership and get a project thread going soon, thanks for kind welcome. 

Meanwhile, does anyone have any idea what's the 2 pin connector under the driver seat for? Round pins, was not connected, black/red stripe wire and one black/white stripe. I'm gonna assume it's for the seat heater, but a quick check didn't reveal what's it connected to in the fusebox.

[GreyDJ2]

Heated seat. Under the rotary light switch there are two switches plus a blanking plate. That unused position is for the heated seat switch. I have it fitted and used for another purpose, it needs a relay.

[Strider]

OK, so, thanks for the help, but it appears an entirely different witchcraft is at hand here. 

By default, the heated seats switch is located on the right of the dash, past the 4-way indicators, it would seem. The position you mentioned holds rear and front foglight switches in my car. 

My apologies for reversed image, phone buggered off. Note that at this position, while the plate was hidden by a coverplate, it was there from factory, and one symbol plate for all 3 switches here. There was no switch installed.

Now, for real headscratcher - I have traced the connector under the seat...

this one, to a...

this guy. This was hidden behind the driver's kickboard, and it's a "Zentralverriegelung Steuergerat", or "Control unit for central locking". You can see the pinout on the picture, and the wires from the connector under the seat go to M1 and M2 pins. The car has central locking, however it does not have an actuator on drivers door, only on others. Now, the only two things that pass through my mind are : it was some sort of a pressure switch on the seat that would lock the car by itself if it didn't detect a driver in the seat for a while (unlikely, considering that there is really no way to lock the driver's door due to lack of actuator), or that it had some sort of fancy autostart as soon as the car is unlocked, so you place your rear on seat that is already heated up - doesn't really explain the switch to trigger it, unless it would be constantly activated if you wanted the heating during winter time for example.

I understand autoelectrics quite well, but I have absolutely no idea what the "control unit" is supposed to do, nor I can find any conclusive info or schematics online. If anyone could shed some light on this thing...

[vxcalibre]

14 hours ago, Strider said:

 however it does not have an actuator on drivers door, only on others. 

theres a simple switch fitted on the drivers door, under where the mirror fits if I remember. You only need the actuator/servo motor when you fit remote locking

Edited June 24, 2020 by vxcalibre
Added pic

[neilsri130]

Yes that foxed me on the 130 when i decided to fit a cat 1 alarm. In the end i had an auto sparks fit the alarm ( my knowledge of auto electrics on cars made after about 1970 is zero )and he had to find and fit an actuator to the drivers door so it would operate on remote. 

[Strider]

Thanks for the schematics. I'll see what is up, there is a simple sliding switch on the drivers door, it does actuate all the other actuators, but from the schematics, M1 and M2 contacts are supposed to be switchable + and - for the motors themselves... and it ends up beneath my seat for some reason. The central locking works, always has. 

I had a spot of bad luck, there was a significant flood in my area, house and the yard were flooded and the car bit it too (a crapton of dirt is now inside the shell), so checking on the unholy wiring will have to wait a bit. 

[andy]

Get a dehumidifier in there if you can!