A special thanks goes to neilsri130 as this was originally his idea I just put together this blog of my representation of his idea.
OK so here goes.
Things that you will need:
1 Meter self adhesive door bottom draught excluder (You don't need the glue as shown in the picture but this can be used if you wish)
Philips head and Bladed screw driver
A Stanley knife or equivalent
The Mrs Hair dryer
About 3 hours
Step 1:
Make yourself a nice cup of tea.
Step 2:
(If you don't have the centre console between the floor and the bottom of the dashboard then you can skip this step) Pull away the gear stick gater then grab your bladed screwdriver and carefully pry on the top of the plastic surround of the gear leaver/gater plastic away from the bottom cubby hole. Hopefully the picture will be more clearer.
Then remove the 2 screws that this cover hides.
The cubby hole is hocked in so you will need to slide the cubby hole forward then pull up this should come away. You can see the slots that holds this in in the next picture.
Step 3:
Pull off the plastic leavers off the Heater and air divert-er then remove the 4 screws that hold the lower part of the dash in there are 2 at the very bottom one on top and at an angle in the rear screen demister and one at the same angle where the choke leaver is. If you have a fuel injected car there maybe a cover that needs to be pry'ed off to gain access to the screw.
Step 4:
Remove and disconnect the radio then the clock. Undo the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel.
Pry the top of the panel and bring the top part of the panel out this will then lift out as seen here.
Here is a couple of pictures of what it looks like behind the panel.
Step 5:
Remove the 2 Air vents the right hand side one you push at the top and bring it round 90 degrees and then the vent will push up to un-clip the left hand side one you push down the opposite way these can be fiddly especially the left hand side one.
When these are out clean out all the old foam from the grove where the foam is held.
I washed mine with warm soapy water and used the wife's hair dryer to dry the plastic especially inside the grove.
Step 6:
I then prepared my draught excluder by cutting it in to 4 lengths 2 short ones for the sides and 2 longer ones for the long edges I then folded the draught excluder in half and used the sticky side to stick it onto itself the short sides i pushed in with a small screw driver. I put the folded edge to the top against the plastic to make a seal when the flap is closed The long edges I pushed in enough to get a good seal agents the sealing surface I checked this by holding it up to the light and see if there was any daylight coming through. This took some time to get right. The draught excluder is only friction fit into place I only used the glue to glue the side of the draught excluder that did not have the tape on but this is just me being a tight arse! You could use the glue if you wanted but I cant see it moving I will let you know if this is the case.
Here I am holding it up to the light to see if there are any potential leaks. This is the best time for adjustments to avoid any whistling when the fan is going full speed and when the vents are closed.
Here is what it looks like when the vent is open.
Installed back into the car for testing.
Closed air vent.
Now just reinstall everything back into place.
I hope that this guide will help someone out. If anyone has anything to add that may help others with this then let me know.
Edit, as Photobucket has stopped hosting images I have now moved all the images over to postimg hopefully everything is working and the photos come out in the correct order.
Also todays date is 5/12/2017 and to this day my vent is still working as it should but I do have one warning don’t put the strip in to tight otherwise the vent will be hard to open and close this can be squeezed in a bit more if this is the case.
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